nuttstreet said:I had a friend that used to freeze-flash thaw his Gibson LP's and F Strats (repeat until desired effect is achieved). He claimed that slowly the finish would craze like an old LP that was drug from club to club in a freezing car trunk in the Chicaga winter. He swore it worked but needed many repeats.
AlanN said:but how do the frets get on with such treatment? All that heating and shrinking, I'd be worried that it'd loosen them...
zee824 said:Thanks for all the relpys
So which would be the easier way uv treatment or the freezer treatment.
At the moment I'm not even sure I'm gonna do it or even able to (doest the mij love rock have nitro fin?) and I don't know if I have the heart to do it to my favourite guitar. Thanks for any help
Zee
nuttstreet said:Just ask Chuck.
Berry, of course!
He threw his rir in the trunk of his Coupe DeVille and drove it to every gig. Frozen in the trunk to in front of the spotlight. Repeat evry night for 200 consecutive nights.
stratman323 said:Even if it's a "nitro finished" model, it will be a thin layer of nitro on top of a poly base coat
AlanN said:stratman323 said:Even if it's a "nitro finished" model, it will be a thin layer of nitro on top of a poly base coat
Bit misleading, Mike. If it is "nitro finished" in the sense of modern Tokais then yes, but there are plenty of Tokai LP copies which are full nitro with no poly undercoat.
AlanN said:Pre-1982 LS80 and above, post 82 LS150 and above; in recent times, the high end Love Rocks are all nitro. The nitro over poly thing is a fairly recent addition if I recall correctly, but I don't know exactly when, sorry. 90s?
JVsearch said:AlanN said:Pre-1982 LS80 and above, post 82 LS150 and above; in recent times, the high end Love Rocks are all nitro. The nitro over poly thing is a fairly recent addition if I recall correctly, but I don't know exactly when, sorry. 90s?
Is that definitely known for a fact? I mean, Fender have been doing it since the 60s and they're one of the major, er, um, influences on Tokai.
It stands to reason that if there's an ST-80 proven to have a full nitro finish (think someone on here did a test?) then the LS-80 probably has the same type of finish.
But has anyone burned the finish all the way down to the wood with acetone, not just got a bit of a reaction on the top coat and left it at that? (can't blame a person for leaving it at that! :lol: )
It's actually extremely expensive to do a pure nitro finish these days; one guy I encountered said it would add $500 to the cost of the guitar, but that was a single job of an unusual nature. Historic Makeovers specialise in nitro re-finishing and charge about $1000 USD for redoing a top on a Les Paul. With this in mind, I think it's safer to assume that almost all the modern stuff is nitro over poly or poly, unless it is specifically stated to be full nitro, or the guitar is pretty expensive.
Back to the OP - you only want to fade it right? So forget about freezers and just let it get a bit of sun on the body, not the neck (Jacco has proven that they will fade). Leaving the pick guard on is up to you.
stratman323 said:Even if it's a "nitro finished" model, it will be a thin layer of nitro on top of a poly base coat - nothing like a "real '59". So the chances of it ageing just the same are pretty slim, however much you roast it or freeze it!
Mike
Yup, "these days" is right - which is why they introduced the lacquer over poly finish at some point. The early instruments which weren't poly were all nitro, and the upper range (read: extremely expensive ) modern tokais as I linked are all nitro still.JVsearch said:It's actually extremely expensive to do a pure nitro finish these days
AlanN said:Yup, "these days" is right - which is why they introduced the lacquer over poly finish at some point. The early instruments which weren't poly were all nitro, and the upper range (read: extremely expensive ) modern tokais as I linked are all nitro still.JVsearch said:It's actually extremely expensive to do a pure nitro finish these days
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