jacco
Well-known member
This question has been asked before but I can't seem to find a good answer. Help please!
Which steel trem block will fit my 1980 Springy?
- Thread starter jacco
- Start date
Help Support Tokai Forum:
DaveWW
Well-known member
Doesn't yours alrrady have a steel bolck? My 82 ST55 does.
I have read that some people have used Callaham blocks which fit straight on. I'd be a bit dubious about the improvemt though unless you trem block is not steel.
Dave
I have read that some people have used Callaham blocks which fit straight on. I'd be a bit dubious about the improvemt though unless you trem block is not steel.
Dave
A
Anonymous
Guest
DaveWW said:
I'd be very dubious about the improvement even if it isn't steel. My 1980 ST80 doesn't have a steel block, & I can't hear any difference when compared to a Goldstar that does have a steel block, & I have gigged both. What difference is steel supposed to make to the sound?
DaveWW
Well-known member
Mike, haven't ever tried it but I could imagine that a heavier better fitting block could offer an improvement or at least some difference and sustain. Like I said though my experience with strats is pretty limited. If you've tried both I'm sure your right. What are the none steel blocks made from?
JohnA
Well-known member
Non-steel blocks are made from Mazak, a zinc alloy.
I fitted a Wilkinson trem with steel block to my Springy and it sounded exactly the same, it might be one small part of why a good Strat sounds good, but it's certainly not a major factor IMO
I fitted a Wilkinson trem with steel block to my Springy and it sounded exactly the same, it might be one small part of why a good Strat sounds good, but it's certainly not a major factor IMO
A
Anonymous
Guest
DaveWW said:
I'm not sure that a steel block is any heavier than the alloy block. It's just magnetic - not that that is the slightest bit relevant....
As for better fitting, why should a new steel block fit better than the one that's been in place for 30 years?
JohnA
Well-known member
Is a Springy trem not cast as one piece? i.e. the block isn't removable
A
Anonymous
Guest
JohnA said:
That's what I thought.
DaveWW
Well-known member
Never took mine apart - so wouldn't know but it looks like there are three screws under the saddles going into the block .... just like the ones shown on the Callaham web site.
Maybe the zinc alloy ones are cast as one block? Did I read somewhere that springys with tokai stamped saddles had cast blocks?
Dave
Maybe the zinc alloy ones are cast as one block? Did I read somewhere that springys with tokai stamped saddles had cast blocks?
Dave
jacco
Well-known member
From all the info I have gathered I have made out that the pre 'final prospec' blocks are zinc alloy for all models lower than ST60. And also that blocks from that era are 1 piece. I don't know if these are facts.
I personally don't know how to differentiate between zinc alloy and steel with only 1 example at hand. Steel will be heavier of course but as said I can't compare.
I tried a Callaham steel ABR-1 on a LS60 which was absolutely horrible. It had more sustain, more overtones but so much that the guitar choked and it sounded very metally, very harsh. I understand now why original LPs weren't outfitted with this kind of ABR-1.
But ok, the vintage strats did have such a block so Fender must have done that for a good reason. I expect the steel block to transfer resonance better than zinc and have more overtones. But maybe that will be less dramatic than on a LP with the kind of construction a strat has, I don't know.
I have my reasons not to go for a Callaham, any other options?
I personally don't know how to differentiate between zinc alloy and steel with only 1 example at hand. Steel will be heavier of course but as said I can't compare.
I tried a Callaham steel ABR-1 on a LS60 which was absolutely horrible. It had more sustain, more overtones but so much that the guitar choked and it sounded very metally, very harsh. I understand now why original LPs weren't outfitted with this kind of ABR-1.
But ok, the vintage strats did have such a block so Fender must have done that for a good reason. I expect the steel block to transfer resonance better than zinc and have more overtones. But maybe that will be less dramatic than on a LP with the kind of construction a strat has, I don't know.
I have my reasons not to go for a Callaham, any other options?
stratman323 said:
Don't have any Tokai strats but I have changed Callaham block and very nicely finished saddles to my am std strat from 1991. Those things were with the swimming pool routing if that is relevant for somebody. I was after aesthetic improvement and did not expect to get any advantage in the sound. Well, I was wrong, the difference was clear and hearable and I like it much better now. It is not a sustain case for me but now my strat sounds even more like a strat supposed to sound. Sorry, cant help you Jacco but I recommend callaham parts without doubt (edit: at least the strat parts
). Oh, of course we need some numbers. the original zinc block weighs 230gr while the Callaham block is 290gr
A
Anonymous
Guest
jacco said:
I don't want to shatter the Fender illusion, but Leo did lots of things because they were the most economical solution, or he used parts that were simply readily available.
jacco
Well-known member
stratman323 said:
I believe you when you say that but from 1954 to 1971 Fender used the same seperate steel block. In 1971 (which is a great year!) a one piece case metal block is introduced.
I reckon the latter one is cheaper?
A
Anonymous
Guest
Fair point.
jacco
Well-known member
stratman323 said:
DaveWW said:
Can I conclude that all pre 'final prospec' Springy blocks are one piece zinc alloy and all 'final prospec' Springys have a seperate steel block?
jacco
Well-known member
gaijin said:
Thanks gaijin (and mike), I can't believe I didn't think of it myself.. I tested and it's zinc alloy.
So I ordered a Wilkinson bridge with steel block, thanks JohnA for pointing me in that direction. I also ordered Raw Vintage steel saddles to go with that.
JohnA
Well-known member
Which Wilkinson bridge did you order? The fixing screws are different spacing on a lot of them you need to get the one with elongated holes.
jacco
Well-known member
JohnA said:
Yep, I got that one. Any hints on how to age it a little bit?
JohnA
Well-known member
jacco said:
I think they are chrome rather than nickel, go chemical aging won't work, wire wool, or 'wet & dry' paper is really your only option.
