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Man of few words, many guitars...
- Thread starter rkwest (innadaze)
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rkwest (innadaze) Tokai’s all between’79 and ‘82.
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Cool stuff man. Lots of nice Breezys in there.
That qualifies for the couch photos thread if anything does.
The family/couch/random Tokai photo thread
Nice job.
That qualifies for the couch photos thread if anything does.
The family/couch/random Tokai photo thread
Nice job.
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Thanks!
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"Literally"Now I know where they all went to. LOL
Homer J. Simpson
Well-known member
That's an impressive collection! Also, that's an impressive collection of Breezys!
I know you're not a man of many words, but on behalf of our quest to figure out the odd ways of Tokai it would be awesome if you had collected numbers - serial numbers with the neck and body stamp numbers coming with them. Did you by chance jot them down or take pics, and would you be willing to share them (via PM)? No obligation, I just had to ask!
I know you're not a man of many words, but on behalf of our quest to figure out the odd ways of Tokai it would be awesome if you had collected numbers - serial numbers with the neck and body stamp numbers coming with them. Did you by chance jot them down or take pics, and would you be willing to share them (via PM)? No obligation, I just had to ask!
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Sure! I have the serial numbers written down by hand just have to type them up. Pics of the pots and necks may take longer. I'll do my best.
Homer J. Simpson
Well-known member
That would be awesome! I don't want you to take all of your guitars apart now of course, that would be quite a task in your case anyway!
But over time, maybe when they need some maintenance it would be great if you could look for the stamps. I don't know how familiar you are with dating and verifying Tokais, so I give you the gist here:
What we're looking for is the serial # together with the neck and body production stamps. The body stamp is often only 2 screws away in many Breezysounds because it's in the control cavity:
If there's no production stamp in the control cavity it may be under the neck PU.
But then the control plate contents can still give us a similar information: Pots in early Tokais almost never have date codes, but the switches do. On the Breezy switches they are very hard to read though, this one reads "1N 3":
The first number is the year (which is already known in most cases), the second digit is a month code 1-9 or O=October, N=November, D=December which is the interesting part. The code on the pictured switch means "1981 November".
The neck stamps are here, but I don't expect you to take off all the necks. Like I said, when they need maintenance etc... having the stamps (or even better, pictures of them) would be recommendable for you too as additional means of identification in case of theft or if you want to sell a guitar and prove that it's a legit Tokai.
(Pics are from my '82 TE70, which I love to bits BTW!).
But over time, maybe when they need some maintenance it would be great if you could look for the stamps. I don't know how familiar you are with dating and verifying Tokais, so I give you the gist here:
What we're looking for is the serial # together with the neck and body production stamps. The body stamp is often only 2 screws away in many Breezysounds because it's in the control cavity:
If there's no production stamp in the control cavity it may be under the neck PU.
But then the control plate contents can still give us a similar information: Pots in early Tokais almost never have date codes, but the switches do. On the Breezy switches they are very hard to read though, this one reads "1N 3":
The first number is the year (which is already known in most cases), the second digit is a month code 1-9 or O=October, N=November, D=December which is the interesting part. The code on the pictured switch means "1981 November".
The neck stamps are here, but I don't expect you to take off all the necks. Like I said, when they need maintenance etc... having the stamps (or even better, pictures of them) would be recommendable for you too as additional means of identification in case of theft or if you want to sell a guitar and prove that it's a legit Tokai.
(Pics are from my '82 TE70, which I love to bits BTW!
).
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As promised (in order originally posted) part one…
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Part two (in order originally posted.
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I tried to attach the neck plate pictures in the order of the original post, but somehow they are in somewhat reverse order. Oh well...
Homer J. Simpson
Well-known member
They're all spaghetti logos (OK one is a Custom Edition TJB).
(The 2 serials are from the TE50s on image 1590 I guess)
(The 2 serials are from the TE50s on image 1590 I guess)
Last edited:
Homer J. Simpson
Well-known member
Thanks for posting those!
It's not easy to figure out which is which though, here's what I got so far:
TE70BB 1019338 M
TE70WR 1020069 M
TE70?? 10499 RW
TE70YSO 0015478 M
TE70?? 0015238 RW
TE70?? 1018919 RW
There are 3 YSO and one GS TE70s but I can't tell them apart on the neck plate pics.
TE??OW L10194 RW
TE50?? L04129 RW
TE50BL L02171 RW
TE50MR 10648 RW
TE60RW 1022975 RW George Harrison
TE?5N 0012451 M
TE?5N 12306 M
It's not easy to figure out which is which though, here's what I got so far:
TE70BB 1019338 M
TE70WR 1020069 M
TE70?? 10499 RW
TE70YSO 0015478 M
TE70?? 0015238 RW
TE70?? 1018919 RW
There are 3 YSO and one GS TE70s but I can't tell them apart on the neck plate pics.
TE50?? L04129 RW
TE50BL L02171 RW
TE50MR 10648 RW
TE60RW 1022975 RW George Harrison
TE?5N 0012451 M
TE?5N 12306 M
Last edited:
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Hi Everybody,
-Marco
As I continue my search for a MIJ Tokai T-style, and perhaps other of the usual brand candidates, something of info about neck profile shapes/thickness/ nut width measurements found wiith various model numbers/years, and their catalog "model group discriptions", such as "vintage", "contemporary", "traditional", or "premium", would be very useful to me.
I suppose in regards to rkwest's collection, of what we *now* refer to as 7okai's "vintage years", of their production, I had hoped Peter Mac's book, might have shed some light on the subject.
I have found, just as I did with trying to get accurate garment measurements from ebay sellers, most sellers can't be bothered, are incapable of making them, or don't actually have access to the items.
I had an experience of a Japanese "jacket flipper", with thousands of them, all photoed the same way, probably not even touched by the seller, before being stowed in a warehouse. Despite claiming he was happy to provide further info, in my case for a vintage Levis jacket, all he would do was send me measurements he came up from *god knows where*. I knew he was lying, and they couldn't have come from the jacket pictured, as I had a completely worn-out example of his offering's doppelganger. I ordered it, received it in three days, and it was the exact duplicate of the one I possesed.
It seems, similarly, to be the case with most of Japanese aspirant guitar brokers. They don't necessarily know anything about guitars, "Happy Kitty" purses, sushi knives, or Nintendo games either.
And thanks Sigmania, I am following your advice, and figuring out "the game", of this, with my own investigation.
I am now seeing that what Tokai refers to as a "¿Soft U?" profile, on the more modern "ATEs", may actually be what Fender calls a "¿Medium C?", or something along those lines, that might more suit my small hands, but don't find too much of measurement info. A descriptioon of a "great neck shape", is not too useful to me !
- Thanks everyone
-Marco
As I continue my search for a MIJ Tokai T-style, and perhaps other of the usual brand candidates, something of info about neck profile shapes/thickness/ nut width measurements found wiith various model numbers/years, and their catalog "model group discriptions", such as "vintage", "contemporary", "traditional", or "premium", would be very useful to me.
I suppose in regards to rkwest's collection, of what we *now* refer to as 7okai's "vintage years", of their production, I had hoped Peter Mac's book, might have shed some light on the subject.
I have found, just as I did with trying to get accurate garment measurements from ebay sellers, most sellers can't be bothered, are incapable of making them, or don't actually have access to the items.
I had an experience of a Japanese "jacket flipper", with thousands of them, all photoed the same way, probably not even touched by the seller, before being stowed in a warehouse. Despite claiming he was happy to provide further info, in my case for a vintage Levis jacket, all he would do was send me measurements he came up from *god knows where*. I knew he was lying, and they couldn't have come from the jacket pictured, as I had a completely worn-out example of his offering's doppelganger. I ordered it, received it in three days, and it was the exact duplicate of the one I possesed.
It seems, similarly, to be the case with most of Japanese aspirant guitar brokers. They don't necessarily know anything about guitars, "Happy Kitty" purses, sushi knives, or Nintendo games either.
And thanks Sigmania, I am following your advice, and figuring out "the game", of this, with my own investigation.
I am now seeing that what Tokai refers to as a "¿Soft U?" profile, on the more modern "ATEs", may actually be what Fender calls a "¿Medium C?", or something along those lines, that might more suit my small hands, but don't find too much of measurement info. A descriptioon of a "great neck shape", is not too useful to me !
- Thanks everyone
