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Guitar5986

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I have a 1980 Tokai LS-80 LP Reborn with a damaged bridge post.

IMGP2134.jpg


I've been trying to find a replacement and haven't had any luck. Both Callaham and Faber said they wouldn't be able to fabricate a replacement for me. I did however get this old Tokai form from the helpful people over at Faber.

1980_14-300dpi.jpg


I'm waiting for a response from Pigtail Music to see if they could possibly make a few copy's.

It's just odd that they would use M4 threads for the top half and then use a standard wood screw for the bottom portion. Anyone have any idea as to how I could get an exact copy made? I will probably end having my guitar tech fill in the holes and use some Callaham studs that I have on hand but I'd rather just replace the original and not have to get the extra work done.
 
I don't think you will get a reply from Pigtail; still waiting for them to answer a similar question for almost 3 months now. I've heard the guy has passed away last year.

I bought Callaham metric replacement studs but indeed the thread that goes into the body is different, the thickness is the same. My luthier is mounting a complete Callaham bridge on my LS-60 right now.
 
That is too bad to hear about the owner of Pigtail Music. I wonder if they will carry on with the company for a while or if they are just kind of fading out as time passes.

I figured that I didn't have much to lose and I tried threading my Callaham posts in my Tokai. The posts are half metric and half 6-32 (even though the metric threads fit fine in the Callaham ABR-1 bridge). It took a little while but they fit in nice and snug. You were definitely right about them being the same diameter. These puppies aren't going anywhere.

As far as a tone difference in the posts...not much difference which is what I expected. There is a bit more acoustic tone and the wood vibrates slightly more than it did beforehand. It's the kind of difference that no one would notice but me because it's my guitar... I'm just glad I don't have to take it in somewhere and spend money to get this taken care of. 8)
 
Yeah, very sad about Steve Rowen of Pigtail, he died very suddenly with no warning.
His wife is trying to keep it going with the help of somebody who was working with Steve, so hopefully they will succeed.

Glad you got those posts to fit nicely, and you're right it is pointless to try and get posts made up that are the same as what Tokai used. All you need is something that fits properly and does the job. Gibson certainly never used a combination wood screw and machine thread post on their guitars. It's just not necessary, all you need is good tight wood to post contact and the tension of the strings does the rest.

A few people have replaced their posts with stainless steel machine bolts sometimes driven deeper into the body (into the mahogany) and claim they hear an improvement in either case. So, it's not inconceivable that there is a better method out there than the way Tokai and Gibson have done it.
 
Guitar5986 said:
That is too bad to hear about the owner of Pigtail Music. I wonder if they will carry on with the company for a while or if they are just kind of fading out as time passes.

I figured that I didn't have much to lose and I tried threading my Callaham posts in my Tokai. The posts are half metric and half 6-32 (even though the metric threads fit fine in the Callaham ABR-1 bridge). It took a little while but they fit in nice and snug. You were definitely right about them being the same diameter. These puppies aren't going anywhere.

As far as a tone difference in the posts...not much difference which is what I expected. There is a bit more acoustic tone and the wood vibrates slightly more than it did beforehand. It's the kind of difference that no one would notice but me because it's my guitar... I'm just glad I don't have to take it in somewhere and spend money to get this taken care of. 8)
Click to expand...


Oh ok, I was just going to suggest that you try one of my 1981 LS60 studs that's left over. I was having some trouble with getting the thumbwheel on it but maybe it could have worked for you.
 
Guitar5986 said:
IMGP2134.jpg
Click to expand...

you have got to be F - ing kidding me :-? :eek: :evil: ...................

never knew about that abomination :lol:

WTF was Tokai thinking, or were they thinking?


I've removed a few Greco TOM studs and they are threaded all the way with the right threads :D
 
that is a little surprising - i'd never pulled one of mine.
 
Just out of curiosity, why bother going through all the trouble of getting one fabricated? A vintage-style replacement should have enough bite in the narrow threads to hold fine, and there are several great repro screws and thumbwheels being made now (I'd recommend http://retrospec-guitar.com/store/gibson-parts/retrospec-thin-abr-wheels--posts/)
 
RyanC said:
that is a little surprising - i'd never pulled one of mine.
Click to expand...

If you want to do it, be VERY carefull because it's hard not to damage the thread and the thumbwheel will not fit anymore.. I have experienced this myself and believe me when I say I am carefull
 
I use two little cut off pieces of cabinet shim stock, the very thin ends & a Vise Grip; works like a charm 8) every time :D

no "amassment of murderous high-tech toys" here :lol: .............
 
cryptozoo said:
Just out of curiosity, why bother going through all the trouble of getting one fabricated? A vintage-style replacement should have enough bite in the narrow threads to hold fine, and there are several great repro screws and thumbwheels being made now (I'd recommend http://retrospec-guitar.com/store/gibson-parts/retrospec-thin-abr-wheels--posts/)
Click to expand...

the thread will give no real problems but the thickness of the stud will
 
I was a bit surprised myself when I pulled the post out. Even more so when I realized my post tool was threaded on so tight that I couldn't remove it...lol.

Hopefully if anyone tries to do this in the future they can stumble upon this thread and see that the metric posts will indeed fit. You just need to take your time and be extremely careful. As for the standard 6-32 posts jacco is right about the thickness. They would be loose in the original holes.
 
jacco said:
RyanC said:
that is a little surprising - i'd never pulled one of mine.
Click to expand...

If you want to do it, be VERY carefull because it's hard not to damage the thread and the thumbwheel will not fit anymore.. I have experienced this myself and believe me when I say I am carefull
Click to expand...

You're supposed to remove them by using the two thumbwheels on each post one by one, the thumbwheels lock together and then work kind of like a wing nut to turn out the post.

And, obviously that's how they should be put back in. :)
 
MIJvintage said:
Guitar5986 said:
IMGP2134.jpg
Click to expand...

you have got to be F - ing kidding me :-? :eek: :evil: ...................

never knew about that abomination :lol:

WTF was Tokai thinking, or were they thinking?
Click to expand...

It's not that bad! :lol:

Tokai were trying to make small improvements here and there it seems, and I get the idea of these posts, but it's just not necessary into maple, just make sure the holes are tight.
 
JVsearch said:
jacco said:
RyanC said:
that is a little surprising - i'd never pulled one of mine.
Click to expand...

If you want to do it, be VERY carefull because it's hard not to damage the thread and the thumbwheel will not fit anymore.. I have experienced this myself and believe me when I say I am carefull
Click to expand...

You're supposed to remove them by using the two thumbwheels on each post one by one, the thumbwheels lock together and then work kind of like a wing nut to turn out the post.

And, obviously that's how they should be put back in. :)
Click to expand...

Yes and have you actually tried that? The studs are such bad quality material that the thread gets twisted very easily
 
JVsearch said:
You're supposed to remove them by using the two thumbwheels on each post one by one, the thumbwheels lock together and then work kind of like a wing nut to turn out the post.

And, obviously that's how they should be put back in. :)
Click to expand...

that trick works very well on components with larger threads, as I have used it previously for other, larger items.
Works great for placing & removing studs on well head Ts & on some heavy equipment.
I worked in the 'oil field' in my late teens/early twenties

never tried it on such small threads: I would be very leary of doing that with threads the size on the TOM studs .........
if such small threads get the least bit distorted, you may not be able to get the wheel to properly thread back over the OD of the stud .........

just a thought ............
 
an easy fix for at least 50% or more of the times a TOM stud thread is buggered up; remove the stud, flip it, then put it back in place

the threads that have previously been sub-grade/below surface are usually always good threads :D and then your're set 8) .............

usually no need for a new stud; just flip the old one ...................
 
jacco said:
JVsearch said:
jacco said:
RyanC said:
that is a little surprising - i'd never pulled one of mine.
Click to expand...

If you want to do it, be VERY carefull because it's hard not to damage the thread and the thumbwheel will not fit anymore.. I have experienced this myself and believe me when I say I am carefull
Click to expand...

You're supposed to remove them by using the two thumbwheels on each post one by one, the thumbwheels lock together and then work kind of like a wing nut to turn out the post.

And, obviously that's how they should be put back in. :)
Click to expand...

Yes and have you actually tried that? The studs are such bad quality material that the thread gets twisted very easily
Click to expand...

Never happened to me with any of my Gibsons... The posts came out pretty easily to be honest. Maybe it's the Tokai "improved" post system that is more difficult to remove?
 

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