I bought another Tokai.

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chuckyz2

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I recently took possession of a 78' LS-80.
It was sold as having a cracked headstock in the usual area where the neck and headstock flow together.
I sanded the area down as it was raised on the lower side. Turned out it was only Lacquer flaking.
there was a shallow thin dent about as long as the perimeter of a fingernail tip. I sanded it past the finish
a couple of thousandths and it disappeared. Even when wet down. Like new. I had to follow the spider web
lacquer cracks that shot out in several directions. So it was great news that there is no break or repair. But now
I have to refinish it. I sand my necks so all that needs to be refinished is the back of the headstock down to
where a sanded neck usually ends. Does any one know Tokais process of finishing from bare wood?
Its an inkie so I need to figure out how to preserve the serial # also. It is being and will continue to be well
documented in the event I sell it in the future. I hope to make it look like it never happened.
I will post some pics when I get a chance.
With wood, most good finishers use a grain filler if needed and sealer. Then the dye or color. Then the laquer.
I am at an advantage, as I dont have to feather it to existing paint and the original paint will be a neck away,
so a few shades off will not be noticeable. I am also considering doing a patch finish to see if I can make it
blend. But I am pretty sure that will be a waist of time. But dealing with the serial# and where the sides meet
the face of the black might end up looking worse than a patch.
Pic 1 is how it arrived
Pic 2 Just the lacquer sanded off until bare wood was exposed.
Pic 3 Sanded the wood until the little impression disappeared and wet it with water to see if it was gone.
 

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I almost pulled the trigger on that one, it was a good deal. I bought one with a crack a while back from Cliff as well, it was only in the lacquer as well. Congratulations on the new LS80!
 
Thanks Cliff. I appreciate you man. If it has the Mojo I think it will, because it sounded great with all that cheap electronics and scratchy pots, collapsed bridge etc, I might send it out and have the neck refinished by a pro. I already have all the good pots and stuff on order. Also a Faber bridge. I'm going to use some Music City nut repair for the low D string. In the process of leveling the frets. Tedious work, but level polished frets really bring out the best in a guitar.
 
Congrats!

A 1978 LS80 is an uncommon guitar. First year of production and I would guess there are a lot less LS80s than LS50 and 60s out there.

Is it SN 8001549?

The Earliest Tokai LPs

Not sure about the pickups in those either. Might be worth swapping out while you are at it?

Keep us posted.
 
Congrats!

A 1978 LS80 is an uncommon guitar. First year of production and I would guess there are a lot less LS80s than LS50 and 60s out there.

Is it SN 8001549?

The Earliest Tokai LPs

Not sure about the pickups in those either. Might be worth swapping out while you are at it?

Keep us posted.
Thanks. 1690
I've noticed too that you don't see too many of them.
I need a black case that says Les Paul Reborn, if you happen to see one for sale.
I thought I found one but the guy wont ship to the USA. : (
 
Enjoy, How are the frets on in ?
My only worry buying an old instrument is major fret wear. Then having to do a refret which sometimes changes the whole feel of the instrument. But well worth it. Have always liked Tokais. When a company puts so much effort in not having them shipped to the U.S, you know they see it as a major threat to them.
 
Enjoy, How are the frets on in ?
My only worry buying an old instrument is major fret wear. Then having to do a refret which sometimes changes the whole feel of the instrument. But well worth it. Have always liked Tokais. When a company puts so much effort in not having them shipped to the U.S, you know they see it as a major threat to them.
The guitar didn't have a lot of wear at all. There were some spots that looked like string impressions rather than wear. Other than that, the frets had the same need for leveling as my LS-60. They were high around the truss rod end at the body side. I think this is from the wood being compressed and lifting those frets just a tad. The same up on the other end. It was very minimal though. I have them all leveled and crowned. I just have to polish them. I hate having to polish them all with several grits of polishing cloths. It takes forever and is tedious and hard on the fingers. I want to check it after it is under tension with strings on before I go through the process of polishing. I have a way of leveling with the strings on. I wanted to see how much of a difference it is both ways. On maple necks, witch are harder and more stable, all the ones I've done, are fine after putting the strings on. All of the Mahagony ones are not. I probably just should have leveled them with the strings on and called it done, but I want to see the difference for future reference. Usually what happen is frets 2, 3 and 4 are raised from the pressure of the truss. Sometimes you get other oddities down the neck. From soft or harder spots flexing less or more than the rest. We shall see.
 
Fret job all done. Neck is very stable. Only needed minor touch up under tension. Probably because it is a fat 58 neck.
The guitar sounds great. It is louder than my other LS unplugged. Resonates nice and has great sustain.
 

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