Goldstar Body Restoration

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beetleing

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Hi , i thought id document the restoration of this 84-85 ish body recently purchased on flea bay, its had a hard life by the look of it, i plan to strip the current grey finish and refinish Blue, also route out the hacked neck pickup area , glue in new wood and re route to original shape,

Blunt chisel was here

and here

Ive removed the painted over code area

to reveal

Looks like like a metallic Blue , can anybody confirm that MB is Metallic Blue? Im not keen on metalics so im thinking of Sonic Blue to keep it Blue based, ive got most parts but need a Bridge , il update when time allows
 
Yep this is metallic blue. Look at the free link to my book below and you will see the photo of the code on mine. Good luck with the restoration

Iain
 
Started to strip the old paint tonight, hot air gun didnt do a lot of good so used a blowtorch on low setting, this uncovered the previous burns from the previous re finish

Most of the paint came off with no wood burns from me anyway

The the orbital sander starting with 240 grit

then 320grit

And thats where i am with it this Bank Holiday in sunny essex,
next a little more sanding with 400 grit then out with the Router.
 
Just a thought....Probably better to do all the routing,chiselling etc first and then proceed with sanding.............if you are putting on a colour finish (blue?) you need not overdo the sanding yet....as you will maybe need a grain fill,followed by primer,undercoats and then finish coats.(sandings in between of course)..........primers and undercoats can be tinted to match finish colour..........

best of luck....
 
funkilius said:
Just a thought....Probably better to do all the routing,chiselling etc first and then proceed with sanding.............if you are putting on a colour finish (blue?) you need not overdo the sanding yet....as you will maybe need a grain fill,followed by primer,undercoats and then finish coats.(sandings in between of course)..........primers and undercoats can be tinted to match finish colour..........

best of luck....

Yes thanks for that , you do have to think in advance all the time, cheers
 
Routed some clean edges today for the new wood block inserts


Glued and clamped overnight using Titebond

il sand grain fill and apply sanding sealer next time.
 
Today i plugged the extra holes with cocktail sticks and used a tiny amount of surface filler ,then applied some grain filler and sanded out , sorry no photos of that part,then i applied 2 coats of nitro cellulose sanding sealer, the wood ( sen Ash?) has taken on a nice amber colour now.il leave overnight to dry and then prep for primer.Ive masked the body codes off to protect from colour coats.I had noticed once i had routed the pickup cavity the surface was a lot smoother than the middle and bridge cavities, the factory seem to laquer over the dust ect and this leaves small bits under the surface , so to replicate this i used some sawdust and spinkled this in the cavity before i laquered .
 
Applied the first primer coat today


you can see the sawdust crumbs ive added to the neck pickup cavity

just a little filling to do then il apply a Black guide coat which is an automotive product, a dry powder is applied to the white , then when you wet and dry this off any low spots will show as black.
 
I love restoration threads like this.

A very tidy job on the routing and prep! Nicely done! ANd nice to see it closer to its former glory after the pickup butchering.

I find the foam polishing pads from companies like Maguires (used for automotive detailing) along with T-cut are very good for bringing the nitro shine up after the fine wet n dry.

What are your plans after the body is done?
 
Hi thank you,Ive got a Goldstar Rosewood neck , a set of V11 pickups and tokai switch and tokai hardware inc final prospec saddles and also a set of Fender 54 Custom shop pickups, as ive got another Goldie with V11s i may try out the 54s to sound them out alongside each other, i like the idea of those polishing pads ,ive got a full size automotive electric mop but its like a sledghammer to crack a nut.
 
Here we can see the dry powder guide coat applied

And after some flatting you can see the area of inserted wood not visible before, with a little more work with the wet and dry this will merge with the surrounding area and will not be seen.

When i finish flatting il apply another primer coat.
 
Thanks i appreciate it, Colour coat time, so i decided on sonic blue in the end


it has now had 2 clear coats

I will now leave it for a month to harden before flatting and polishing,
the colour looks a bit off in the pics but its classic sonic blue in life.
 
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