Good,solid, les paul clone?

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spoonbadger

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Hi all, new to the forums. I've been trying to find a good les paul clone with these features...

1. mahogany body. 1 piece, 2 piece whatever. Just not crap quality.
2. Full thickness maple cap. Dont care about flame/quilt, and i'd rather a plain top then a photo top.
3. Long neck tenon.
4. Mahogany neck
5. Rosewood fretboard
6. Ideally, block inlays.
7. Routed for 2 humbuckers.
8. neck binding, body binding would be nice too.
9. No chambers.

I realize this is a pretty big ask (especially for my first post :wink: ) but i'm sick of scouring teh interwebs and not finding anything useful.

I realize i didnt add any hardware,pickups etc. I dont mind too much about that stuff, i can upgrade that. But it would be nice to find something with fairly ok parts.

And i dont need a 7,000$ heritage,vintage,relic,jimmy-page-signed gibson. budget is under 1000$ :)

thanks!
 
Hey...welcome to the forums.. :lol:
Where in the wide world are you situated...as this will make a difference to cost.
For example..here in Australia I can pick up a Chinese OR Korean model for around the $500 retail mark.
MiJ here in Australia starts around $1000 retail.
 
Here you go:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ESP-EDWARDS-LP-CUSTOM-DUNCAN-VW-LONG-TENON-Mint-Nitro_W0QQitemZ380041705955QQihZ025QQcategoryZ2384QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Let's see
1. mahogany body. 1 piece, good quality CHECK
2. Full thickness maple cap. Dont care about flame/quilt, and i'd rather a plain top then a photo top. CHECK (these have a 1.5cm thick maple cap)
3. Long neck tenon. CHECK
4. Mahogany neck CHECK
5. Rosewood fretboard SEE NO.6
6. Ideally, block inlays. (IF YOU WANT BLOCK INLAYS, YOU NEED TO TAKE IT WITH AN EBONY BOARD WITH EDWARDS' - that's not a bad thing!)
7. Routed for 2 humbuckers. CHECK
8. neck binding, body binding would be nice too. CHECK
9. No chambers. CHECK

Price: Under $1000 delivered

Is this the sort of guitar you're looking for?
 
Oh wow, that edwards looks very impressive. Why cant i ever find guitars like that :). thanks for the suggestion!. Definitely have to look into these . Does anyone have much experience with their quality control? Much chance of getting a lemon?.

And Oze, I'm in ireland. Not too bad for buying online, horrible for finding guitars in stores :|.

Thanks guys!
 
sorry man,pm replied to.

So i found that edwards have been making these, and i'm reaaaally interested!...

http://cgi.ebay.ie/New-ESP-Edwards-Super-Flamed-JP-Relic-Honey-Burst_W0QQitemZ230267695877QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33038QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It's everything i could want from an LP. (except the tacky relicing, but i could deal with that)It even has all the page-esque upgrades :D!! (zeppelin fan....)

So, my only question, is there anyway that this differs from a typical gibson les paul (apart from the upgrades, neck tenon and name on the headstock?).

Thanks again lads, only 5 posts in this thread so far and it's already the most helpful guitar-info i've read in months!

EDIT: and those anyone know of anything similiar without the relic? ;)
 
So, my only question, is there anyway that this differs from a typical gibson les paul (apart from the upgrades, neck tenon and name on the headstock?).

Yes, a couple things:

Edwards: African Mahogany
Gibson: Honduran Mahogany

Edwards: Nitro over poly finish
Gibson: Nitro finish

Edwards: Plain maple cap (1.5cm thick) with a thin flamed maple veneer
Gibson: No veneer... the way the maple top looks is the actual wood used

Edwards: No binding on the fret edges
Gibson: Has fret-end nibs

Edwards: long neck tennon
Gibson: short neck tenon

Edwards: Hardware (tuners, bridge, tailpiece) are made by GOTOH (one of the best makers out there)
Gibson: Gibson hardware (also good)

Edwards: 1 screw truss rod cover
Gibson: 2 screw truss rod cover

Edwards: Deep-dish carve on the maple cap (just like the originals)
Gibson: Cap is slightly less curved/carved

That about covers it :)
 
"nitro over poly"?. Does that mean a poly base coat with nitro over it?. Any idea why they finished it like that?.seems very odd :|

The unbound fret ends are interesting, i'd imagine unbound frets would be an advantage unless the frets are sharp/unpolished...

The only problems i have here are the maple veneer and the relic'd finish. Dont suppose anyone knows of a model with the same specs, noflame/fullyflamed-cap and no relic?....

am i just being really picky about this?.....

And thanks for the post,thats some really concise info :D
 
spoonbadger said:
"nitro over poly"?. Does that mean a poly base coat with nitro over it?. Any idea why they finished it like that?.seems very odd :|

The unbound fret ends are interesting, i'd imagine unbound frets would be an advantage unless the frets are sharp/unpolished...

The only problems i have here are the maple veneer and the relic'd finish. Dont suppose anyone knows of a model with the same specs, noflame/fullyflamed-cap and no relic?....

am i just being really picky about this?.....

NO, you aren't picky ... I don't like the relics as well ...
That's why I went for a 'normal' LP from the LTS series ... although it has a 0,5cm flamed veneer over a maple cap it sounds beautiful, maybe a little bit tighter than usual but not that big differences which you could hear very clearly ...
The ESP are hiding their secrets very well, so there's no proved clue available why they have covered the poly undercoat with a thin lacquer layer ... perhaps to get a certain matte finish which I had on my LP when it had arrived ...
BTW - by playing and polishing the guitar the lacquer will disappear after a while ...
Here's a pic of the matte surface ...
lp4.jpg


... today it isn't shiny but not as matte as it was before. Unfortunately the pics don't do it justice ...
ed7.jpg

... perhaps you can notice the difference at the back of the neck ...
ed10.jpg


Roger
 
i've found that many japanese les pauls with flame tops are veneered, not all, but many.

i don't like veneers on guitars at all... but there is no other option with Edwards guitars, unless you go for a solid/opaque finish.

the fret end are VERRRY smooth... makes no difference that they aren't bound.
 
cyberpunk409 said:
i've found that many japanese les pauls with flame tops are veneered, not all, but many.

i don't like veneers on guitars at all... but there is no other option with Edwards guitars, unless you go for a solid/opaque finish.

the fret end are VERRRY smooth... makes no difference that they aren't bound.

Why don't you like veneers? I have quite a few LP's some with veneers and some with solid tops, I really don't think there is any difference in sound at all that can be attributed to the veneer.
 
spoon, I returned your PM...................................

I have a few that could fit your $1K or under price & the non relic concept BUT shipping to Ireland is $115 via USPS Express International, and then of course there would be a duty & VAT (value added tax) for European imports.

It could be cost prohibitive for you, unless you are looking at something in the $700 range, as that would be a $1K total, with item cost, shipping, duty, and VAT.

You would save at least $200 by purchasing within the EU, which could allow you to purchase something in the $900 ballpark.

You have my email address so, if you would like a list of available guitars, just e me.

Cheers,
Rich
 
CliffsComicWorld said:
+1 JohnA... take the EGF-1200 for example...


I had a difficult time rationalizing the purchase of my 1980 Greco Super Real EGF1000, because of the flame laminate/veneer top, as pictured in the link.
http://cgi3.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=mij_vintage
I suppose I could add a set of DRY Z pups, which seem to be priced currently in the $500 to $600 ballapark & in theory I would have a EGF1200.

IMO, paying $3.5K to $4K for a laminate/veneer top EGF1200 would be a ridiculous expense for a laminate top, and a multi piece body back, when there are other alternatives available with solid flame tops & one piece backs, for the same, or comparable costs.
LS-320 & Historic examples come to mind............

There may not be a difference in sound comparing solid tops to veneers but I have never seen a solid top do what I have seen some veeners do, which is delaminate & shrink :-?
Some veneers look OK but just wait until it starts doing that goofy stuff :eek: .......................
 
spoonbadger said:
"nitro over poly"?. Does that mean a poly base coat with nitro over it?. Any idea why they finished it like that?.seems very odd :|

The unbound fret ends are interesting, i'd imagine unbound frets would be an advantage unless the frets are sharp/unpolished...

This is done to stop the finish sinking into the grain on the body wood - poly finishes are harder and more plastic, nitro is more likely to sink in. Personally, I would sooner dispense with the poly & have the finish sink into the wood. Nitro top coats tend to feel better, though not everyone agrees.

As for fret edge binding, I've never seen the point of it myself.

Mike
 
MIJvintage said:
Some veneers look OK but just wait until it starts doing that goofy stuff :eek: .......................

What a horror scenario ... :eek: :eek: :eek:
Compared to your 80 Greco ... 28 years are enough time left to play it every day until then ...
Does your Greco veneer shrink already ??? :D
Roger
 
MIJvintage said:
IMO, paying $3.5K to $4K for a laminate/veneer top EGF1200 would be a ridiculous expense for a laminate top, and a multi piece body back, when there are other alternatives available with solid flame tops & one piece backs, for the same, or comparable costs.
LS-320 & Historic examples come to mind............

.

How about the added value of a Brazilian board?...
 
oh wow, 18 replies on a thread started by a newb, i like this place ;)....

Didnt know that about laminated tops (that they can shrink/seperate) and that is kinda worrying :|. To be honest, it's not that i wanted a fully flamed maple cap for dirt cheap, i'd just prefer a cap with average grain than some tacky looking laminate. Dont want to pick up my axe and think "nice guitar,pity about the glued on finish" :).


Hmmm, i see what you mean tudor. They're kinda aging in the opposite way to fully nitro'd guitars (from matte to shiny!..). So if i buy an edwards i can look forward to some very odd aging indeed, but no real benefit from hours of wear/playing (i like the idea of proper nitro guitars aging from use, like an old pair of jeans i suppose :)).

To be honest, this guitar is reaaally interesting, http://cgi.ebay.ie/ESP-Edwards-E-LP-130LTS-RELIC-Les-Paul-LT-NitroOHSC-NEW_W0QQitemZ150263543160QQihZ005QQcategoryZ33038QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

i know it's kinda going against my "no-relic" ideals but the relic'ing isnt too severe/tacky and the price aint bad for a top-of-the-line MIJ LP with all the trimmings! :D
 

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