50'S WIRING MOD: Pics Added

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rubis628 said:
Unluckily there are no sprague caps
available here...
only cheap Orange drops.
:-?

I don't think there's much difference between the high end caps. Once you get up to the standard of the orange drops (which are actually pretty good) there's not much more you can do - remember, the tone cap is REMOVING part of the signal so you don't actually hear what passes through it. That's why so many manufacturers get away with using cheapo radio shack rubbish.

I currently use Audionote oil caps in my love rock and an orange drop in my fender tele.
 
Paladin2019 said:
I don't think there's much difference between the high end caps. Once you get up to the standard of the orange drops (which are actually pretty good) there's not much more you can do -

I agree 100% Paladin. I didn't mean to make it sound like Spragues were the only way to go. A quality cap, like an orange drop, is a quailty cap. The Spragues were available on Ebay so I just thought, if I'm going to go through all the trouble to do this and can get virtually the same parts as an old g!b$on I might as well. Same as if all I wanted was a les paul copy, I would have kept the "MAGNUM" copy I had as a kid, lol. The parts I used were simply the way "I" wanted to do it. I'm just havin fun with a nice guitar.
 
GARAGERAT,

you're really good, Thanks for the diagram !!! :wink:



rubis628, don't worry!!

Uncle Roger has something good for you ... take a look ...

http://stores.ebay.de/Rays-Custom-Shop_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

I bought alot from him and he has real good stuff - good caps BTW !!

Roger
 
Looks awsome GARAGERAT!

Well, how does it sound? Do you find yourself using the tone and vol pots more now? Before I rewired I had them at 10 all time because otherwise it sounded muffled, but now there's alot of tones available just by turning the pots a little.

I left out the whole diagram on my site, it was just the way the pots should be soldered that I wanted to show more precisely as there are alot of different wirings circulating the net. And the way I made the picture is the way for the 50's mod.

Do you guys think I should update and make a whole diagram for the wiring with output jack and switch included as well?

Thanks!
 
eresseraca said:
Do you guys think I should update and make a whole diagram for the wiring with output jack and switch included as well?

Hey eresseraca,

If you want to throw the diagram I posted on your site be my guest. After all I drew it looking at the pics on your site. Your site was the motivation for all the mods to my guitar. It was brand new when I got it 3 months ago. Now it seems more like "my" guitar, you know. So thanks to you man. Keep up the good work.
 
Hi eresseraca,

you should consider to what purpose you've made it ...

- Just for you to document the steps ... leave it as it is !

- To give a precise guidance for those who are looking for accurate help ... add the missing specs.


Roger :wink:
 
Tudor, I thought about what purpose the site is for. And realized that I wanted to update the schematic so that others could use it better.

Thanks garagerat! I had yours as a source and redrew the one that I had there from before beacuse I liked how it looked almost like a Xray pic of the cavity :)

Tell me if something looks wierd! :wink:
 
What type of cap was shipped with the guitar (e.g., ceramic, tantalum, plastic film et al.)?
 
Ive seen .022uf and .047uf capacitors used in this wiring, whats the difference?

BTW great thread, think its time for me to break out the soldering iron
 
declan said:
Ive seen .022uf and .047uf capacitors used in this wiring, whats the difference?

BTW great thread, think its time for me to break out the soldering iron

Higher values roll off more treble. With humbuckers I'd use 022 - anything higher and you'd get complete mud when you roll off. Single coils are alright with 047's.
 
If so did it require the holes for the pots to be widened? I'm concerned with a hollow body that it could be significantly more difficult.
 
hi, first time poster.

Garagerat, what wire did you use for the ground loop?

thanks

Nick
 
thanks

yeah the wire that connects up all the pots on the back of them.

also, how did you ground to the tailpiece?

thanks for the help!
 
I can only speak for what I did myself. I used a "regular" plastic covered wire (don't know the gauge) that I pulled the plastic cover off.

I left the original tailpiece ground wire, which was a similar wire as the looped ground wire I used. Soldered that one to the bridge volume pot, if I remember correctly.
 
Glad to help. And thanks for the website comment! :)

bbarnard, CTS pots have thicker shafts than the Japanese pots. So you will most likely need to make 'em bigger. But as I wrote on the Thursday Burst site, DO NOT use a drill in case you aren't comfortable with that... bigger risks of screwing things up!

Take a pen and roll sandpaper around that and sand the holes bigger, a little time consuming but it's definately worth it.
 
eresseraca said:
I can only speak for what I did myself. I used a "regular" plastic covered wire (don't know the gauge) that I pulled the plastic cover off.

I left the original tailpiece ground wire, which was a similar wire as the looped ground wire I used. Soldered that one to the bridge volume pot, if I remember correctly.
**Hey E!**

I did much the same thing except for the wire that links the pots, I used solid copper wire that I stripped completely. I'm thinking of replacing it though as I don't want to run into issues of it turning green. I suppose I could paint it with my daughters clear nail polish. Some of the old Kay's/Harmonys I've had used what looked like straightened paperclips soldered to the pots. I don't think the type is to critical as long it makes contact. Have fun.
 

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