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50'S WIRING MOD: Pics Added
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declan
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Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 87
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive seen .022uf and .047uf capacitors used in this wiring, whats the difference?

BTW great thread, think its time for me to break out the soldering iron
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Paladin2019
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Joined: 06 Sep 2002
Posts: 1969
Location: Cardiff, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

declan wrote:
Ive seen .022uf and .047uf capacitors used in this wiring, whats the difference?

BTW great thread, think its time for me to break out the soldering iron


Higher values roll off more treble. With humbuckers I'd use 022 - anything higher and you'd get complete mud when you roll off. Single coils are alright with 047's.
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bbarnard
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Joined: 17 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:48 am    Post subject: Has anyone done this on an ES120? Reply with quote

If so did it require the holes for the pots to be widened? I'm concerned with a hollow body that it could be significantly more difficult.
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nickt
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi, first time poster.

Garagerat, what wire did you use for the ground loop?

thanks

Nick
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GARAGERAT
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Joined: 14 May 2006
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Location: ALLEN PARK, MICHIGAN, USA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:11 pm    Post subject: ground loop Reply with quote

Can you bve a bit more specific? The wire that connects the pots? Let me know I'll be glad to help.
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nickt
Plucker


Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks

yeah the wire that connects up all the pots on the back of them.

also, how did you ground to the tailpiece?

thanks for the help!
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eresseraca
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Joined: 13 Jun 2006
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Location: Finland

PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can only speak for what I did myself. I used a "regular" plastic covered wire (don't know the gauge) that I pulled the plastic cover off.

I left the original tailpiece ground wire, which was a similar wire as the looped ground wire I used. Soldered that one to the bridge volume pot, if I remember correctly.
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nickt
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks. cool website re Thursday btw.
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eresseraca
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Joined: 13 Jun 2006
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Location: Finland

PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to help. And thanks for the website comment!

bbarnard, CTS pots have thicker shafts than the Japanese pots. So you will most likely need to make 'em bigger. But as I wrote on the Thursday Burst site, DO NOT use a drill in case you aren't comfortable with that... bigger risks of screwing things up!

Take a pen and roll sandpaper around that and sand the holes bigger, a little time consuming but it's definately worth it.
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GARAGERAT
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Joined: 14 May 2006
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Location: ALLEN PARK, MICHIGAN, USA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eresseraca wrote:
I can only speak for what I did myself. I used a "regular" plastic covered wire (don't know the gauge) that I pulled the plastic cover off.

I left the original tailpiece ground wire, which was a similar wire as the looped ground wire I used. Soldered that one to the bridge volume pot, if I remember correctly.
**Hey E!**

I did much the same thing except for the wire that links the pots, I used solid copper wire that I stripped completely. I'm thinking of replacing it though as I don't want to run into issues of it turning green. I suppose I could paint it with my daughters clear nail polish. Some of the old Kay's/Harmonys I've had used what looked like straightened paperclips soldered to the pots. I don't think the type is to critical as long it makes contact. Have fun.
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nickt
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, I've ordered pots/caps/wire etc. All I have to do now is put em in the right places!
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nickt
Plucker


Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

guys, I've got my goodies now, can I just ask, did you use the braided wire just for the toggle switch? as it's single core, I take it you have 2 runs of braided wire going up to the switch?

thanks

Nick
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tudor
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Joined: 05 Mar 2006
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Location: AC - Germany

PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick,


One wire to the toggle switch only!!

You have to bend the two metal pins in the middle of the toggle switch together and solder it with the wire. The braided shield is for the ground only ... solder it to the ground of the toggle switch - That's it!


Roger
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nickt
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Roger thanks for the reply!

I am a bit confused though!

Ok Garagerat's diagram earlier in the thread has 3 wires coming of the switch? 1 each to both volume pots and one to the output?

sorry to sound thick, but I appreciate any help!
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tudor
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Joined: 05 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick,

you don't need to be confused ...

I 've got a toggle switch in front of me ... so :

- one wire from the bridge volume pot to one of the outer pins ( with the longish notch)
- one wire from the neck volume pot to the opposite outer pin
- one wire from the input jack to the 2 middle pins of the toggle switch. You have to bend them together and to solder with the wire. Don't forget the ground - therefore you need the braided shields of all three wires.

To manage that - loosen the shields a little bit and turn them together - then solder it to the ground of the toggle switch. READY!

So, there are three in total!!! - You're right!!!

I hope I could explain it sufficiently ... ?

Roger
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