Pearl Pink ST55 Goldstar

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pault1607

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Hi guys. Some of the older posters may remember my Pearl Pink ST55 - see here http://www.tokaiforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=4242&highlight=
The only other one like this that I have ever seen belongs to mirrorboy.

It has barely been played in its poor lonely life and not at all in the last 3 years so it's time for it to go to a better home if any of you are interested.

Here is the ebay link:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130559736905

Thanks.
Paul.
 
pault1607 said:
Hi guys. Some of the older posters may remember my Pearl Pink ST55 - see here http://www.tokaiforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=4242&highlight=
The only other one like this that I have ever seen belongs to mirrorboy.

It has barely been played in its poor lonely life and not at all in the last 3 years so it's time for it to go to a better home if any of you are interested.

Here is the ebay link:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130559736905

Thanks.
Paul.

Did it go in the end ??
 
Yes it did. It went to a buyer in the states. Not sure if for personal use or to be sold on.
 
Ian, there was another PP Goldstar that sold on ebay UK circa 2002. Don't know if that stayed in the UK though. All the other Pink ones are MPK or metallic pink to my knowledge and I think they are all at least a year older than PP.

Interestingly, the codes on Paul's and yours are exactly the same... 3.2PP. Note the 'dot' rather than the more usual 'equals' or a 'dash'. There is another example of a body/neck code containing a dot in Iain Black's Tokai book and I think that was also a TST55 custom colour.
 
mirrorboy said:
Ian, there was another PP Goldstar that sold on ebay UK circa 2002. Don't know if that stayed in the UK though. All the other Pink ones are MPK or metallic pink to my knowledge and I think they are all at least a year older than PP.

Interestingly, the codes on Paul's and yours are exactly the same... 3.2PP. Note the 'dot' rather than the more usual 'equals' or a 'dash'. There is another example of a body/neck code containing a dot in Iain Black's Tokai book and I think that was also a TST55 custom colour.

Interesting, so mines even rarer now the other ones gone.
Still havent had chance to sit down and do a youtube video with new pickups. We're getting closer to end of biking season so will get more time one rainy sunday.

On a different note, have you done any refretting/dressing? I kind of gather from one of your posts somewhere on here you have done a fair bit of fixing and so on.

Regards
Ian
 
storm said:
On a different note, have you done any refretting/dressing? I kind of gather from one of your posts somewhere on here you have done a fair bit of fixing and so on.

Regards
Ian

I've only done nut and fret dressing and setups, but it's only recently that I actually figured out how to really set up a strat properly with regard to string gauge and tremolo spring complement.

The PP Goldie was untouched by me apart from intonation and action, it was pretty much how it came from Scheerer's music shop.
 
mirrorboy said:
storm said:
On a different note, have you done any refretting/dressing? I kind of gather from one of your posts somewhere on here you have done a fair bit of fixing and so on.

Regards
Ian

I've only done nut and fret dressing and setups, but it's only recently that I actually figured out how to really set up a strat properly with regard to string gauge and tremolo spring complement.

The PP Goldie was untouched by me apart from intonation and action, it was pretty much how it came from Scheerer's music shop.

I was wondering from a tool angle, rather than anything regarding the pink one. Just i had all hell on to stop a silverstar from choking out. In the end i had to dress the whole neck quite a bit. Still got one fret that needs about a 1000th taking off in one area. I'm going to buy a fret rocker.
i also found a great page for radius guages you can sit under or ontop of the bridge to set the saddles to match the neck angle. Absoloute essential for 7.25 necks
Do you have proper nut files?
 
I've never had a set of nut files. I'm afraid I come from a long line of Irish tinkers and philosophers, although I did eventually serve a toolmakers apprenticeship.

I file plain string slots in nuts with an X-Acto razor saw. It's about 0.012" thick and you can file one end down to 0.010". I sometimes clean up after with a blunt pointed scalpel using a scraping motion at a slight angle. I have some Swiss flat needle files for the wound string slots. You can buy them with a rounded edge and they can be ground to thickness.

I recently bought a set of welders gas nozzle jet files. they sell them on ebay as nut files for ?2.50 or so. They seem cheaply made in China and only go down to about 0.016", not much use on Delrin,Corian and similar hard plastics but work OK for finishing on real bone and synthetic equivalents like Tusq. They're not that much better than wound string ends for cleaning up slots. Next time I'm passing a BOC depot I will buy a proper set made in Europe as they were much better quality I remember when I used to do welding.

I've contemplated buying proper nut files but I would only use them every two or three years or so when I have a spate of buying a couple or three new guitars.
 
I have the same model (& same colour), but think my serial no. starts wth 14,xxx. Was delighted to see yours go for a nice price... but could never flog mine!

Mine is in need of a new nut and also a fret dressing/re-fret? Anyone else have these issues with this model?
 
tomtwothree said:
I have the same model (& same colour), but think my serial no. starts wth 14,xxx. Was delighted to see yours go for a nice price... but could never flog mine!

Mine is in need of a new nut and also a fret dressing/re-fret? Anyone else have these issues with this model?
Mines fine it was the silverstar that had high and low frets compounded by 7.25 radius ment gilmour bends where impossible
 
storm said:
tomtwothree said:
I have the same model (& same colour), but think my serial no. starts wth 14,xxx. Was delighted to see yours go for a nice price... but could never flog mine!

Mine is in need of a new nut and also a fret dressing/re-fret? Anyone else have these issues with this model?
Mines fine it was the silverstar that had high and low frets compounded by 7.25 radius ment gilmour bends where impossible

Mines a goldstar sound which I have owned since I was about 9? So I have owned it for 15 years... I'm guessing its a mid-80s model, but have yet to look it up properly.

Would you recommend a new nut, or repairing the existing one? The low E string sounds pretty dead with the current nut.
 
tomtwothree said:
storm said:
tomtwothree said:
I have the same model (& same colour), but think my serial no. starts wth 14,xxx. Was delighted to see yours go for a nice price... but could never flog mine!

Mine is in need of a new nut and also a fret dressing/re-fret? Anyone else have these issues with this model?
Mines fine it was the silverstar that had high and low frets compounded by 7.25 radius ment gilmour bends where impossible

Mines a goldstar sound which I have owned since I was about 9? So I have owned it for 15 years... I'm guessing its a mid-80s model, but have yet to look it up properly.

Would you recommend a new nut, or repairing the existing one? The low E string sounds pretty dead with the current nut.
I did read that bone can have dead spots. That is the advantage of things like the graphtec nuts or tusq. You need to know wether the bottom of the nut is flat or radiused. Oh and unless you have nut files or something like mirrorboy you want to take the height off the bottom of the nut. If it's radiused it's even mote tricky. If your fingerboard is maple it will probably be varnished over. You need to cut the varnish around the nut.

In short if any of above gives you the fear, STOP and pay a pro to do it.
Have a search on YouTube Stewart macdonald goes through how to remove a nut etc
 
storm said:
tomtwothree said:
storm said:
tomtwothree said:
I have the same model (& same colour), but think my serial no. starts wth 14,xxx. Was delighted to see yours go for a nice price... but could never flog mine!

Mine is in need of a new nut and also a fret dressing/re-fret? Anyone else have these issues with this model?
Mines fine it was the silverstar that had high and low frets compounded by 7.25 radius ment gilmour bends where impossible

Mines a goldstar sound which I have owned since I was about 9? So I have owned it for 15 years... I'm guessing its a mid-80s model, but have yet to look it up properly.

Would you recommend a new nut, or repairing the existing one? The low E string sounds pretty dead with the current nut.
I did read that bone can have dead spots. That is the advantage of things like the graphtec nuts or tusq. You need to know wether the bottom of the nut is flat or radiused. Oh and unless you have nut files or something like mirrorboy you want to take the height off the bottom of the nut. If it's radiused it's even mote tricky. If your fingerboard is maple it will probably be varnished over. You need to cut the varnish around the nut.

In short if any of above gives you the fear, STOP and pay a pro to do it.
Have a search on YouTube Stewart macdonald goes through how to remove a nut etc

Ok, I think it is just a plastic nut that looks a bit like this:
cut-nut-electric-guitar-800x800.jpg

(However its worn down on the thick E string)

Cheers for the advice :)
 
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