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Mick51 said:
marcusnieman said:
I have no clue what that photo is of

Adhesive putty. Like the adhesive on 3M Post-It Notes.

Gotcha....I'd go with putting the pickguard screws back in the holes. Seems to me that this stuff will leave goo in the holes that you can't get out if you ever want to..

I just leave my pickguard holes empty.
 
Some updates here. Snapped my high E string last night while i was doing some crazy bend :oops: so i changed the strings and did the wrap around. Had a play around today, couldnt really tell if the sustain has increased since the guitar just sustains forever when playing infront of the amp anyway. There's seem to be a slight increase in volume when playing acoustically but i could be imagining that :roll:
A noticeable change is that forced feedbacks (i dont know if thats what you call it) are now extremely easy to achieve and almost uncontrollable.

With all that, also comes a new problem. The G string now wont hold/sustain. It dies off slowly and unnaturally when i play any note on that string. Tried raising the bridge as i thought it could had been fret buzz but that didnt help so now im confused.. :cry: The other strings seem to be fine as like i said, sustains forever.

Ive finally decided that i will replace the bridge and tail piece with some tonepros locking ones. I dont like and cant take the way how everything comes off anyway when i change strings, especially the bridge. I feel like i have to readjust the height and intonation everytime. :x
After some research i found that the Tonepros T3BP bridge should drop right into the existing post s/thumbwheel without any mod and that the 'G style-M1 locking stud" for tail piece should drop right in with out problems as well. Correct me if im wrong? I find it very difficult in finding which model will fit as i have no idea on what all these ABR, nashville bridge is all about even after a whole night and day of google researching.
Any advices would be great! :)
 
warxy said:
Any advices would be great! :)

I'll probably get lynched for this, but I say go with Faber hardware. Cheaper than Tonepros and better locking designs. I've used both and the TP stuff is now in a drawer.
 
Paladin2019 said:
I'll probably get lynched for this, but I say go with Faber hardware. Cheaper than Tonepros and better locking designs. I've used both and the TP stuff is now in a drawer.
Ive just placed an order for the faber "tone lock" kit, tail piece and locking bridge. :lol: hopefully they will all fit..
 
marcusnieman said:
Paladin2019 said:
warxy said:
Any advices would be great! :)

I'll probably get lynched for this, but I say go with Faber hardware. Cheaper than Tonepros and better locking designs. I've used both and the TP stuff is now in a drawer.

+1 I too prefer the Faber gear

Fabers are just great piece of hardware. I used to change lockable bridge, alu tailpiece and tone kit (studs and washers for the tailpiece). Gottfried has always offered very good service to me, despite of all the rumours here.

However the sound will change and it is pretty much a matter of taste if you like it or not. They are not for every Les Paul out there. With my R8 I prefer the original stuff for example. Same thing with my 2004 LS200 even it has 'zinc' tailpiece and non-brass bridge saddles. Especially the locking bridge seems to cut some smoothness typical for a LP but you might get some brightness and attack with it, which is usually a good thing with low budget Tokais for example.
 
Yeah after checking out the faber parts, they just seem to be more solid and "go to" for me.
How long did you guys take to get it from shipped to your house tho? Its been a week already and i asked for express but it still hasnt arrived. :-?
 
Hi Warxy,

Copliments for your purchase! My I ask how much have payed for and who is the seller?

Thank you in advance,
James
 
Paladin2019 said:
warxy said:
Any advices would be great! :)

I'll probably get lynched for this, but I say go with Faber hardware. Cheaper than Tonepros and better locking designs. I've used both and the TP stuff is now in a drawer.

I agree :). On my ex-Gibson Les Paul Standard I had Faber hardware too, simple excellent stuff. I don't have any experience with Tonepro though. Either way, be sure to get them with the right measurements..!
 
Big Willie Style said:
Quick Faber question - can you use the rings with your exiting studs or do you need to buy the studs too? Thanks

Jason

You need the studs, otherwise they wouldn't lock the tailpiece in place.
 
I've used left over rings from the set on other none faber tailpieces so you don't need the studs. I think you're getting mixed up with the bridge?

Dave
 
Thanks Dave. That's what I was wondering. Just by looking at the studs online, they look similar to what's on my guitars now. I was wondering if I could just buy the spacers and use with my existing studs. Quite a bit cheaper. I'd use the existing tailpieces as well since they're already aluminum. Dave, do yours fit as snugly as they do on the Faber studs?

Jason
 
Big Willie Style said:
I was wondering if I could just buy the spacers and use with my existing studs.
Jason

Ahem... You need the studs, otherwise they wouldn't lock the tailpiece in place.

I suppose in theory you could use them as spacers and make a slight improvement to the mechanical connection between tailpiece and body, but why buy locking hardware that doesn't lock?
 
Paladin is technically right. If you use the locking rings as I've done on two of my guitars you will potentially have a gap between the tailpiece and the collars/shoulders of the stud depending on how good a fit it is. If you buy the faber studs they have no lower shoulder so they bolt down hard with no gap onto the spacers. In practice I'm not sure it makes much if any difference on mine as the studs and tailpiece fit pretty snugly.

Dave
 
Sorry guys, just took a look at the website and the schematic. I see what you mean now Pally.

Now, I know a lot of people love the tailpiece lock kits, but do any of you use the locking bridge as well? Notice any advantage if so (besides staying in place during string changes)?

Thanks for the input guys!

Jason
 
I've got one locking faber bridge and one none locking faber bridges. They're both excellent bridges but I don't think there's any noticeable difference in tone.

Dave
 
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