Fretboard inlay types

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markcus58

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I was cruising the specs on different Japanese LS models and noticed that some inlays are listed as "dish" and some as "dish amber cell". What is the difference other than the amber cell are on the higher end LS guitars..

Another neck issue is that some list neck edge binding, some not. Yet all the ones I looked at have edge binding. Guess I'm trying to understand what defines the good from the better on necks.

thanks
 
All the LS models have neck binding, i think you mean fret edge binding which is only on the high end models. My inlays are Abalone as well, here is a pic of my LS-180 neck with fret edge binding and Abalone inlays also this guitar has an ebony fretboard.
f7_12.jpg


Hope this helps.

Mick
 
Ah, I see now what is meant by the "fret edge" binding. Looks like a bit of good work to get that finished out well. How secure is that tab of binding ? Do you need to be careful not to break one off or does the adhesive anchor them pretty well ?

Back to the inlay question...what defines "dish" ? Is this a material, style of cut or ????
 
The "nibs" on the end of the frets are very stable, they don't move even when pushed. The "dish" is the shape of the inlays on the LP standards style guitars, the customs have "block" style inlays.

Mick
 
Thanks again Mick..
So dished is the shape and the options are material / color. I quickly read about changing them on the LP forum. Seems not too bad for someone with time and a bit of skill & proper tools.
Inorder to go that route there has to be a really superior inlay material replicating a '59. Any ideas if there is such a thing available ?
 
I am not too sure but mother of pearl is widely used, it may have even been used on the early Gibbo's. I'm sure someone with more knowledge of Gibson that i will help out.

Mick
 
leadguitar_323 said:
The "nibs" on the end of the frets are very stable, they don't move even when pushed.

They are, however, completely pointless.

:wink:

Mike
 
leadguitar_323 said:
I am not too sure but mother of pearl is widely used, it may have even been used on the early Gibbo's. I'm sure someone with more knowledge of Gibson that i will help out.

Mick

I think by the time the LP appeared at Gibson MOP was dead and gone except for high end guitars. It was not used on the bursts - it was acrylic (plastic) of a certain mix which is no longer made, but some boutique people have replicated it or found NOS material to make the inlays again. Of course the acrylic was made to look a bit like MOP.

Uncle Lou makes replica inlays and tuner buttons for the 58 - 60 burst LPs. The inlays are about USD $150 and the buttons $120, so not cheap but small run niche product, and thems the brakes. People (burst LP fanatics) do say they are the best replica parts you can buy.

I think RS Guitar Works have/had a cheaper option, you may have to email them to find out. Interestingly RS found a sheet of Nylon from the 50's which was what the original LP nuts were made of. This formulation of Nylon is no longer made, and the nut blanks they cut from it sold out very quickly.
 
I did look up the Uncle Lou Vintagecheckout inlays. they look good compared to photos of original LP's 'cept for age coloring. I guess given a number of years the celluloid nitrate material made now will color too. I think I may go this route and swap them out. If I can get good instruction will try this endeavor myself. I am never one to shy away from a task and have done similar activaties thru my years.

Uncle Lou has period correct tuner tips too (will this ever end ??) Might just as well get them too. I have replaced the supplied Tiawan tuners with the SD90 Gotohs and having the corect tips will add a bit more to the mystique.

Here is a pic of my inlays
Tokai_upgrade005.jpg

===============================================
Here is a pic of Vintage inlays
317673720_qed7q-M.jpg

There is a noticeable difference and I wonder why Tokai did not use a material that more closely resembles the the celluloid nitrate pattern. Cost I guess as that factors into most decisions.
 
Not to point out the obvious: But, you do understand that any semi-translucent inlay material will look different when it is actually on/in the fingerboard, and backed by glue/adhesive? And then there is the issue of the filler around the inlay.

If the picture is a representative inlay on your board, it looks pretty darned good to me.
 
I always loved the double-trapezoid inlays of Gibson's Jazz guitars and the twin-neck SG that Jimmy Page used to play. Shame they weren't used on the LP.

I wouldn't mind a Love Rock with those on the neck! 8)
 
Yes, Tokai did a great job with the inlays. The quality of workmanship cannot be questioned. That is not my issue though. The issue is that there is a big difference in the swirl patterns between the ones I have and the celluloid that I saw on vintage necks and these new replica inlays. In my opinion they are more attractive and distinctive.
For some reason I have decided this guitar is the one I will tinker with out of my lot. Being that Tokai crafted it after a '59 I intend to further that process. Within reason; I do not expect to strip the finish or install a longer tenon neck. But peices that can be swapped or changed I'll do. My "Project guitar" if you will.
 
For others interested, here is a link to the LP forum that spells out the process for swapping inlays.

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/custom-shop/9500-hcn-inlay-install-guided-tour-r7-r8-pics-3.html
 
Hi !!


Can you explain me :

"Amber cell" (inlay) = synthetic OR organic material ...?

thanks.
 
All the LS models have neck binding, i think you mean fret edge binding which is only on the high end models. My inlays are Abalone as well, here is a pic of my LS-180 neck with fret edge binding and Abalone inlays also this guitar has an ebony fretboard.
f7_12.jpg


Hope this helps.

Mick


old dead thread/new reply

AFA the OP's question concerning 'amber cell' inlays:
The Tokai term 'amber cell' is nothing more than a description for the position marker inlay that Tokai has utilized over a period of several years for some of their higher end offerings.
For example my 2000 Tokai Love Rock LS-320 VF has the so called 'amber cell' inlays.

circa 2000 LS-320 with Tokai 'amber cell' inlays on Brazilian Rosewood fingerboard (photos taken in sun light)
LS-320 board 1.JPG

LS-320 board 2.JPG


'Amber' is nothing more than a description for a color or color tint.
'Cell' is nothing more than slang aka short for celluloid.

So, the Tokai inlay material 'amber cell' is nothing more than a celluloid position marker inlay that Tokai has offered and the inlay has a peculiar odd unusual look mainly because of two things; the color and the mix of the celluloid.



Also, AFA the above photo posted by leadguitar_323: that is not Abalone.
That is celluloid; period.




This is Abalone (photo taken indoors) circa 1979 K. Yairi
# Yairi 7.jpg
 
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